As a classically-trained pianist, I lost the confidence to improvise and create my own music because lessons as a child focused on playing exactly what was on the page. Now, years later I wish I had the ability to play by ear and not shy away from simple improvisations. I don’t want my students to have to choose one over the other, but rather successfully live in both worlds - playing by ear and reading music. Fortunately, I was introduced early on in my Fulbright to the Scottish fèis, an immersive teaching course, specializing in traditional music and culture. At a fèis people gather for an intensive period of time to learn new tunes during the day and play together in a session (a social gathering where folks perform in an informal setting - i.e. pub) at night. My first fèis took place in Kelso through the Merlin Academy of Traditional Music. This three-day weekend opened me to an entire network of fèis going on throughout the year, which often come in the form of extended weekends, holidays or summer camps.

In Kelso, I met Iain Fraser, the Director of Merlin Academy, who led many of the sessions. Ian developed the Glasgow Fiddle Workshop (where I take fiddle and mandolin lessons), has been actively involved in Fèis Rois, and was the principal fiddle teacher in the Scottish Music Department of the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland. He also edited Scottish Fiddle Tunes: 60 Traditional Pieces for Violin, which is the music book I had been using back in Juneau, Alaska to help prepare me for my trip to Scotland. Iain has been key to promoting and sustaining traditional music in so many ways throughout Scotland.
During the fèis in Kelso I learned valuable lessons about traditional music :
- "Traditional music is molded by the people who play it": the experience of learning to play a tune by ear at a fèis was humbling. As others picked up the tune quicky, I found myself desperately trying to create a mental image of the sheet music in my mind. It slowed me up considerably, but my mind was clinging to old habits. At the evening session, I was way out of my league trying to play along with folks, but everyone was encouraging. "Just pick out a few notes and play those. It gets easier the more you try." Graeham, one of our instructors said, "Play what works for you. Mistakes can often lead to improving the song. Tradition isnʼt something thatʼs fixed. It moves, it lives - itʼs totally grand!" And David, a fellow participant, (photo below) shared, "Traditional music is molded by the people who play it." There was an encouraging, non-judgmental and inclusive feel to the entire weekend: young peopled performing with adults and beginners playing alongside advanced fiddlers.
- Connection and Musicality: The whole of the group played with more joy, musicality and connection to one another without music in front of them. This became even more evident when we were given music for one tune by a visiting musician. All of a sudden, heads were buried in the music. Yes, I felt like I could finally hang with the big wigs and shout out, "See, I can play!" but I could hear the difference in the groupʼs sound. We were disjointed, more mechanical and no longer focused on one another, but on a single piece of paper. We looked more serious than joyful. It reminded me of Davidʼs story and the importance of honoring the way in which traditional music is transmitted. Scottish traditional music is part of an oral tradition which has been passed down over hundreds of years.

Davidʼs Story: David plays the fiddle and learned traditionally by ear. He shared that his granddaughter was banned from school orchestra because she couldnʼt read music, yet played at an advanced level. David said it was fèisean like these where his granddaughter discovered that she wasnʼt alone and that another world existed where she could "play like her grandpa." She has since been invited back to her school orchestra. David said sheʼs learned how to navigate both worlds, but sadly has learned not to mention grandpa in school. I know this heartbreaking story has been told by others on both side of the Atlantic. I wonʼt forget this story, David. Thank you for telling it and allowing me to share it.
- "'Learn by heart' means just that: music comes from within, not from a sheet of paper." These words came from Alasdair Fraser, one of the tutors at the Kelso fiddle camp who was kind enough to share his thoughts on traditional music and teaching. His teaching style focuses on "undoing" and "unpacking" so that students can look from within for their music and have the space in which to do it. Alasdair questioned why we equate music to notes on a staff when music is an aural medium. Each flourish can be played differently each time you play the tune (i.e. how you enter into the note, how long you stay on each note, etc.) Those kinds of decisions come from within and canʼt be constrained by visual representation on sheet music. Alasdair shared that his passion for traditional music comes from a place of anger - a fire in his belly. His grandfather couldn't speak Gaelic because it was seen as the language of poverty and the poor so schools wouldnʼt allow it. Alasdair didnʼt go to the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland because students would be kicked out if they played Scottish music. He has seen how many organizations come from a position of power and injustice.
The For those of you interested in Fèis being offered throughout the year for adults, I can't recommend them highly enough. I attended both Fèis Gleann Albainn in Fort Augustus and Fèis Rois in Ullapool and plan to come back next summer to attend more. Here are some that I have found, but am sure is not exhaustive:
I would like to thank FiddleClass.com for creating a list of fiddle classes throughout Scotland, which helped me locate my first Fèis. The Traditional Music and Song Association of Scotland also publishes an Event Calendar, which contains dates and information of various traditional music festivals, events and folk clubs across Scotland in 2018 and into early 2020.
- Fèis Gleann Albainn (Fort Augustus)
- Merlin Academy of Traditional Music (Melrose)
- Sabhal Mòr Ostaig (Ilse of Skye)
- Fèis Rois (Ullapool)
- Shetland Fiddle Frenzy
- Pete Clark (Dunkeld)
- Mairi Campbell Fiddle Retreats (Lismore)
- Ceolas Summer School (Uist)
- Black Isle Fiddle Weekend (Cromarty)
- Blazin' in Beauty (Beauty just outside Inverness)
- Scots Fiddle Festival (Edinburgh)
I would like to thank FiddleClass.com for creating a list of fiddle classes throughout Scotland, which helped me locate my first Fèis. The Traditional Music and Song Association of Scotland also publishes an Event Calendar, which contains dates and information of various traditional music festivals, events and folk clubs across Scotland in 2018 and into early 2020.